100% Cinsault from Sonoma, California fermented two different ways– partial whole cluster and partially anaerobic– and is little else than grapes and sunlight and two pairs of exceptionally thoughtful and precise hands. Besides a delightful crush of bright, red fruits, it’s a light red that moves. It’s reminiscent of picking wild berries off the side of a rocky cliff and letting the good juice drip down your chin on day one; and something more akin to mixed-berry pie on day two. I loved them both. Which is another obvious profound thing about natural wine: it yields to the season.