Vincola Atacalco ‘Carabe de Casablanca’ Pinot Gris is where we find ourselves this month. Found! Aged on the skins for four months, and then another twelve in Italian Amphora, it’s a wine that contains both this and that world: juicy watermelon, peach skins, and tomato vine from this life mingling, or perhaps overlapping, with the savory, dusty ghost of that life—all of it all at once hurtling by. For that reason, I liked drinking this wine better on day two, but even now, I don’t know if it’s an experience that can be replicated—the wine becomes something new just as surely as you begin to expect something of it.